5 Landscape Fabric Alternatives That Actually Work
If you’ve ever pulled back landscape fabric to find weeds growing happily on top of it—or worse, roots tangled impossibly through the deteriorating mesh—you know the frustration. We’ve removed enough failed landscape fabric installations to write a book about it.
After years of installing, maintaining, and ultimately replacing landscape fabric in gardens across the St. Louis area, we’ve learned something important: there are better ways to control weeds. Much better ways. Some cost less, some work longer, and nearly all of them leave your soil healthier than suffocating it under plastic sheeting.
In this guide, we’re sharing the landscape fabric alternatives we actually recommend to our clients at Allen Outdoor Solutions—including our honest experience using cardboard as a weed barrier, along with four other methods we’ve tested extensively in real-world conditions.
Why We Rarely Recommend Landscape Fabric Anymore
Let’s be clear: landscape fabric isn’t always terrible. But after installing and maintaining hundreds of landscapes, we’ve seen the same problems repeat themselves:
Weeds still find a way. Once organic matter accumulates on top of the fabric—and it always does—weed seeds blow in and germinate in that layer. Within two to three years, you often have as many weeds as you would without fabric, except now they’re harder to pull because their roots tangle in the mesh.
It breaks down at the worst time. Quality fabric might last five to seven years, but cheaper versions start deteriorating in three. The problem? It breaks down into stubborn fragments that mix into your soil, creating a nightmare if you ever want to plant something new or renovate the bed.
Your soil suffers. Even “permeable” fabric restricts water flow and air exchange. We’ve dug into beds after five years and found compacted, lifeless soil beneath the fabric compared to thriving, rich soil in areas that used organic mulch alone.
Planting becomes a surgical procedure. Want to add a new shrub or perennial? You’ll need to cut through the fabric, and that cut becomes an expressway for weeds.
There are specific situations where fabric still makes sense—under gravel in commercial parking lots, for example. But for most residential gardens? We’ve found better alternatives.
Using Cardboard as a Weed Barrier: What Actually Happens
This is the method that surprises people most, and honestly, it’s become our go-to recommendation for new garden beds and vegetable gardens. Using cardboard as a weed barrier isn’t a trendy Pinterest hack—it’s a time-tested technique that works because it addresses weed control and soil health simultaneously.
Why Cardboard Works
Cardboard blocks sunlight completely, which kills existing weeds and prevents new seeds from germinating. Unlike plastic fabric, cardboard breathes—water and air move through it, especially as it begins to break down. The real magic happens over the next 12 to 18 months as the cardboard decomposes, adding organic matter to your soil and creating habitat for beneficial earthworms and microorganisms.
We’ve seen dramatic improvements in soil quality in beds where we used the cardboard method. The soil underneath becomes noticeably darker, richer, and easier to work with.
How to Apply Cardboard Properly
Here’s the process we follow, refined through plenty of trial and error:
Start with plain corrugated cardboard. Moving boxes are perfect. Avoid anything glossy, wax-coated, or heavily printed. Remove all tape, labels, and staples—these don’t break down and become annoying later.
Prepare the area. Cut down existing weeds (no need to dig them out), but leave the roots. Water the area thoroughly the day before. Moist soil is critical—cardboard applied over dry soil doesn’t make good contact and leaves air pockets where weeds survive.
Layer generously. Lay cardboard pieces flat, overlapping by at least six inches on all sides. Don’t leave gaps. For particularly aggressive weeds like Bermuda grass or bindweed, we go two layers thick.
Wet it down immediately. Soak the cardboard thoroughly as you lay it. This helps it conform to the ground and kickstarts decomposition.
Cover with mulch. This is non-negotiable. Apply 3-4 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, shredded bark, or compost) over the cardboard immediately. The mulch holds the cardboard in place, keeps it moist, provides weight to prevent wind disruption, and makes everything look finished and intentional.
The Reality Check: What to Expect
First three months: Near-perfect weed suppression. The cardboard is still intact and doing its job. You might see a few weeds pop up in the mulch layer itself, but they’re easy to pull.
Months 4-8: The cardboard starts breaking down, especially in areas that stay moist. This is normal and good—it’s enriching your soil. Weed suppression remains strong.
Months 9-15: Visible decomposition. In some spots, the cardboard has essentially disappeared into the soil. You may see more weeds emerging, but far fewer than you’d see without any barrier, and the soil quality has improved so much that they pull easily.
Beyond 18 months: The cardboard is gone, fully integrated into the soil. At this point, the thick mulch layer and improved soil biology are your primary weed controls. You’ll need to refresh the mulch or consider reapplying cardboard in high-weed-pressure areas.
Pros and Cons from Real Projects
The Good:
- Costs almost nothing if you source free boxes
- Dramatically improves soil over time
- Completely safe for vegetable gardens and edible landscapes
- Easy to plant through—just cut an X and dig
- Suppresses even aggressive weeds when applied correctly
The Challenges:
- Labor-intensive for large areas (collecting and laying cardboard takes time)
- Doesn’t look great during the breakdown phase unless well-covered with mulch
- Needs reapplication after 12-18 months in high-maintenance areas
- Not ideal for formal landscapes where appearance is critical year-round
Where it excels: Vegetable gardens, new perennial bed establishment, naturalized areas, around trees, and anywhere you’re prioritizing soil health alongside weed control.
Other Proven Landscape Fabric Alternatives
Deep Wood Chip Mulch (Our Most Common Recommendation)
This is the alternative we install most often, and for good reason: it works beautifully with minimal maintenance. According to university extension research on mulching, organic mulches not only suppress weeds but also moderate soil temperature and conserve moisture—benefits that synthetic fabrics can’t provide
The key is thickness. A 1-2 inch layer of mulch isn’t a weed barrier—it’s decoration that weeds easily penetrate. A 4-6 inch layer of quality wood chips, however, suppresses weeds effectively while improving soil structure as the bottom layer decomposes.
What we’ve learned about wood chips:
- Hardwood chips work better than pine or cedar for weed suppression
- Larger, chunkier chips last longer but smaller chips look more refined
- Avoid dyed mulch—it offers no soil benefits and the dye can leach
- Fresh chips are fine, despite myths about nitrogen depletion (only an issue if you mix them into soil)
Longevity and maintenance: In our experience, a 6-inch layer provides 18-24 months of excellent weed control. After that, the bottom layer has decomposed into the soil (a good thing), and you’ll need to refresh with 2-3 inches of new chips annually.
Cost reality: For a 200-square-foot bed, expect to spend $60-100 on initial installation, then $30-50 annually for refreshing. Some tree services offer free wood chips if you’re willing to take a full truckload.
Best for: Established shrub beds, around trees, naturalized areas, pathways, and anywhere you want a natural look with low maintenance.
Newspaper Layers (Cardboard’s Smaller Cousin)
Newspaper works on the same principle as cardboard but breaks down faster—usually within 6-12 months. We use it when we want temporary weed suppression or in annual vegetable gardens that get tilled each season.
Application: Layer 10-12 sheets thick (not just one section—overlap multiple sections). Wet thoroughly as you go, then cover with 3-4 inches of mulch.
The advantage over cardboard: It’s easier to work with in small spaces and around existing plants. You can tuck it into tight corners and irregular shapes more easily than rigid cardboard.
When we choose newspaper: Small beds, annual vegetable gardens where we want the barrier completely gone by next season, and quick temporary installations.
Important note: Use only black and white newsprint. Glossy inserts and colored sections may contain inks you don’t want in your soil.
Living Ground Covers (The Long Game)
This approach flips the script: instead of blocking weeds with a physical barrier, you plant something intentional that outcompetes weeds for light, water, and space.
Why it works: A well-established ground cover creates a living mulch that shades out weed seeds while stabilizing soil and preventing erosion.
Reality check: This isn’t a quick fix. You’ll need to manage weeds aggressively for the first 1-2 growing seasons while your ground cover establishes. But once mature, many ground covers become nearly self-maintaining.
What we plant in the St. Louis area:
- For full sun: Creeping thyme, sedum varieties, creeping phlox
- Part shade: Ajuga, sweet woodruff, epimedium
- Full shade: Pachysandra, vinca minor, wild ginger
- High traffic tolerance: Mazus reptans, creeping Jenny (contained areas)
Investment: Expect $3-8 per plant, and you’ll need one plant per 1-2 square feet depending on species. For a 100-square-foot area, that’s $150-400 initially, but virtually no cost afterward.
Best for: Large areas where you want year-round beauty, slopes prone to erosion, established landscapes, and anywhere you can wait 1-2 years for full coverage.
Thick Organic Compost Mulch (Double Duty)
High-quality compost serves as both weed barrier and soil amendment—a true two-for-one solution.
How thick is thick enough? We apply 4-5 inches. At this depth, compost effectively blocks light while providing nutrients every time it rains. The weed seeds that do germinate in the top layer pull easily because the soil is so rich and loose.
What makes it work: Unlike wood chips that sit on top of the soil as a separate layer, compost gradually integrates into the topsoil, continuously improving structure and fertility. Weeds that do emerge are growing in such ideal conditions that their roots don’t grip tightly.
The maintenance trade-off: Compost breaks down faster than wood chips—it’s doing its job of feeding your soil. You’ll need to reapply 2-3 inches twice per season to maintain weed suppression.
Cost consideration: Quality compost costs $30-60 per cubic yard. For a 100-square-foot bed at 4 inches deep, you’ll need about 1 cubic yard initially, then half that twice per season.
Best for: Vegetable gardens, rose beds, perennial gardens, anywhere you’re actively cultivating plants that need rich soil and regular feeding.
Stone or Rock Mulch (Done Right)
We need to address this because stone mulch is everywhere—often installed incorrectly over landscape fabric (the worst of both worlds).
The right way: Proper soil preparation and edging are everything. Remove existing weeds and roots thoroughly, grade for drainage, create solid edging to contain the stone, then install 3-4 inches of stone.
Why this works without fabric: The depth and weight of stone prevent most weed seeds from germinating. The few weeds that do appear sit on top of the stone and are incredibly easy to pull or spray—their roots don’t penetrate the stone layer.
What about weeds? You’ll still see some, especially after a few years when organic matter accumulates between stones. But maintenance is easier: a quick sweep, occasional rinsing with a hose, or spot treatment with weeds that haven’t rooted into soil.
When stone makes sense: Modern or desert-themed landscapes, high-traffic areas, drainage zones, fire-wise landscaping, and anywhere you want a permanent, low-organic-maintenance solution.
When it doesn’t: Near trees that drop leaves (nightmare to clean), around plants that need organic matter, anywhere you might want to change the planting scheme in a few years.
Quick Comparison: Finding Your Best Alternative
| Method | Initial Cost | Lifespan | Maintenance | Weed Control | Soil Health | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cardboard | $ (nearly free) | 12-18 months | Moderate | Excellent | Excellent (improves) | New beds, vegetable gardens |
| Deep Wood Chips | $$ | 18-24 months | Low | Very Good | Good (improves gradually) | Established beds, trees |
| Newspaper | $ (free) | 6-12 months | Moderate | Very Good | Good (improves) | Small beds, annual gardens |
| Ground Covers | $$$ | Permanent | Low (after establishment) | Excellent | Excellent | Large areas, slopes |
| Compost Mulch | $$$ | 3-6 months | High | Good | Excellent (improves rapidly) | Vegetable gardens, perennials |
| Stone | $$$$ | Permanent | Low | Good | Neutral | Modern landscapes, drainage areas |
Choosing the Right Alternative for Your Project
The best weed barrier depends on your specific situation. Here’s how we guide clients through the decision:
For vegetable gardens and edible landscapes: Cardboard or compost mulch, hands down. Both improve soil health, which directly impacts your harvest. Cardboard wins if budget is tight; compost wins if you want maximum plant nutrition.
For established ornamental beds: Deep wood chip mulch offers the best balance of appearance, effectiveness, and reasonable maintenance. It looks professional, lasts nearly two years, and improves soil gradually.
For new bed installation: Start with cardboard to kill existing grass and weeds, let it work for 6-12 months, then transition to wood chips or plant ground covers. This combination gives you immediate suppression plus long-term solution.
For large areas or slopes: Ground covers are worth the initial investment and patience. Once established, they’re nearly maintenance-free and prevent erosion better than any other method.
For modern or low-water landscapes: Stone mulch with proper installation provides a permanent solution that fits the aesthetic.
For areas you might change later: Avoid stone. Use cardboard, newspaper, or wood chips—all easy to remove or plant through when you want to modify the landscape.
St. Louis-Specific Considerations
Our clay-heavy soil and humid summers create specific challenges. Heavy clay benefits tremendously from the organic matter that cardboard, wood chips, and compost add over time. Our wet springs mean cardboard breaks down faster than it might in drier climates, so plan for the shorter end of the lifespan range.
We also deal with aggressive weeds like henbit, chickweed, and crabgrass that love our conditions. This makes the 4-6 inch depth critical for mulch-based methods—don’t skimp thinking 2-3 inches will suffice.
When to Call in Professional Help
Most of these methods are completely DIY-friendly, especially cardboard and newspaper applications in smaller gardens. But there are times when professional installation makes sense:
Large-scale projects: Installing 4-6 inches of wood chips across 1,000+ square feet requires equipment for moving and spreading material efficiently.
Proper grading needed: If your beds have drainage issues or require regrading, professional expertise prevents costly mistakes that lead to water pooling or erosion.
Stone installation: This requires proper edging installation, precise grading, and often geotextile fabric (yes, we use fabric under stone, but never under organic mulch).
When you need it done right, once: If you’re investing in ground covers or permanent solutions, professional spacing, plant selection, and installation ensure success rather than costly replanting.
At Allen Outdoor Solutions, our weed barrier installations include proper bed preparation, soil amendment when needed, precise material application, and a maintenance plan customized to your landscape goals. We’ve found that doing it right the first time costs less than fixing a failed DIY attempt.
The Bottom Line
After testing all these landscape fabric alternatives across dozens of properties, here’s what we’ve concluded: the best weed barrier is the one that fits your specific needs, budget, and maintenance commitment.
For most homeowners who want effective, affordable weed control that improves rather than degrades their soil, we recommend starting with cardboard topped with wood chips. This combination gives you immediate results, costs very little, and leaves your soil healthier than you found it.
But we’ve also seen beautiful, nearly weed-free landscapes using every method on this list. The key is proper installation—adequate depth, good coverage, and honest maintenance follow-through.
Whatever alternative you choose, you’re making a better decision than installing landscape fabric. Your soil will thank you, your plants will thrive, and you’ll spend less time wrestling with deteriorating fabric and tangled roots.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does cardboard work as a weed barrier?
Yes, cardboard is highly effective as a weed barrier when installed correctly. It blocks sunlight completely, preventing weed seed germination and killing existing weeds underneath. Applied in overlapping layers and covered with 3-4 inches of mulch, cardboard provides 12-18 months of excellent weed suppression while gradually decomposing and enriching your soil with organic matter. We’ve used cardboard successfully in hundreds of installations across the St. Louis area.
How long does cardboard last under mulch?
Cardboard typically lasts 12-18 months under mulch before fully decomposing into the soil. The breakdown speed depends on moisture levels, cardboard thickness, and climate conditions. In our humid Missouri summers, expect cardboard to start visibly decomposing around month 6-8, with complete integration into the soil by 15-18 months. This isn’t a drawback—as it decomposes, it’s improving your soil structure and feeding beneficial organisms.
What is better than landscape fabric for weed control?
Several alternatives outperform landscape fabric: thick wood chip mulch (4-6 inches) provides long-lasting weed control while improving soil; cardboard covered with mulch offers excellent suppression plus soil enrichment; living ground covers create permanent weed barriers once established; and deep compost mulch controls weeds while feeding plants. Unlike landscape fabric, these alternatives don’t restrict water and air flow, don’t create planting obstacles, and they actually improve soil health over time rather than degrading it.
Can I use cardboard instead of landscape fabric?
Absolutely—cardboard is often a superior choice to landscape fabric. It provides equally effective (often better) initial weed suppression, costs virtually nothing, allows water and air to reach the soil, breaks down into beneficial organic matter, and makes future planting easy. The main difference is longevity: landscape fabric might last 5-7 years (while creating problems), whereas cardboard lasts 12-18 months before enriching your soil. For most residential gardens, cardboard’s temporary nature is actually an advantage, not a limitation.
How thick should wood chip mulch be for weed control?
For effective weed control, apply wood chip mulch 4-6 inches thick. This depth blocks sufficient light to prevent most weed seed germination while creating a physical barrier that’s difficult for existing weeds to penetrate. Thinner layers (1-2 inches) provide minimal weed suppression and are really just decorative. The bottom layer will decompose into your soil over 18-24 months, so plan to refresh with 2-3 inches of new chips annually to maintain effectiveness.
Do I need to remove grass before laying cardboard?
No, you don’t need to remove grass before laying cardboard—that’s one of its major advantages. Simply mow the grass or cut down weeds as short as possible, water the area thoroughly, then lay overlapping cardboard directly on top. The cardboard will smother the grass and weeds, which will decompose underneath and add organic matter to your soil. This no-till approach is easier on your back and better for soil structure than digging everything out.
What kind of cardboard should I avoid for garden use?
Avoid cardboard with glossy coatings, wax treatments (like produce boxes), heavy colored printing, or synthetic labels that won’t decompose. Also skip cardboard with tape, staples, or plastic windows—remove these before laying the cardboard. Stick with plain corrugated moving boxes or shipping boxes with minimal printing. These break down cleanly without introducing unwanted materials into your soil.
Are ground covers really effective at preventing weeds?
Yes, but with an important caveat: ground covers are highly effective at preventing weeds once fully established, which typically takes 1-2 growing seasons. During establishment, you’ll need to manage weeds actively around young plants. Once mature, dense ground covers like ajuga, pachysandra, or creeping thyme shade out weed seeds and outcompete most weeds for resources. We’ve maintained ground cover areas that require virtually no weeding after year three—but you need patience and consistent care in those early years.
